Paypal donation

Constructing a 3D Printer [Prusa I3]

SECTION 4 - Extruder - Page 2

Section 1 - Wooden frame : part 1 - part 2 - part 3
Section 2 - Y Axis : part 1 - part 2 - part 3
Section 3 - X-Z axis : part 1 - part 2
Section 4 - Extruder : part 1 - [[ part 2 ]] - part 3
Section 5 - Electronics : part 1 - part 2 - part 3
Section 6 - Coarse Calibration & Software : part 1 - part 2 - part 3
Section 7 - Fine Calibration & Software : part 1 - part 2 - part 3
Section 8 - Extras : part 1 - part 2 - part 3
Section 9 - Maintenance & Modding : part 1 - part 2


We will use the E3D V5 1.75 mm full metal hot end 12V version.
We will also present in parallel the E3D V6 1.75 mm full metal hot end.
The official documentation by the manifacturer can be downloaded from here :
E3D V5 1.75 mm full metal hot end
E3D V6 1.75 mm full metal hot end

E3D V5/V6 instructions :
Unbox the E3D v5 package
Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

The E3D v6 comes in a similar box. The barrel is smaller. The heater block has a slice in order to add the heating element.
No kapton tape is used, instead they give you a blue fiberglass tubing for the thermistor.
Also the thermistor has changed they give you a ATC Semitec 104-GT2 instead of the EPCOS B57560G104F.
Also the V6 uses PTFE tube and has a blue heating element (25W) instead of the red one (40W).
e3d v6 unboxing

e3d v6 unboxing

e3d v6 unboxing

We grind a little bit the Greg's wade hole.
Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

In the E3Dv5 case we are going to add a M8 washer into the Greg's wade hole.
Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

In the case of E3D v6 we are going to add two washers a M5 and a M8 like the photo below.
adding washers to the e3d v6

Now we test the E3D v5/v6 with our Greg's wade body.
Place the groove mount like the photos below.
If the barrel won't fit grind again a little bit the hole.

Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Once you are sure that the barrel fits into the Greg's wade body you can start assembling the hot end.

For the E3D V5 : Screw the short end of the stainless steel heatbreak into the heater block until the start of the constriction is flush with the top of the heater-block.

Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Screw the nozzle into the heater block until it butts up against the heat-break inside the block, just finger tight is fine for now.
The hexagonal flat portion should not touch the block, there should be a tiny gap between the flat area and the block.
Notice again that the nozzle should tighten up against the end of the break inside the block to form a seal. It should not tighten up against the block.

Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3 Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3 Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Strip the wire. Strip 20mm of the soft outer insulation and then 10mm of the inner two cores. Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Spread the legs of the thermistor [EPCOS B57560G104F] slightly, just enough that they aren't touching, take the two bootlace ferrules and slide onto the thermistor legs with the funnelled mouth facing away from the glass bead. Take a look below :
Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Now twist the cables like the photo below and cover each joint with a bootlace ferrule.

Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Using pliers crush the ferrule tube tightly around the wire joints to form a strong joint that is also heat-proof.

You should have something like this :
Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Cover each individual leg with kapton tape like the photo below :
Make sure that the two legs are well isolated with kapton tape.
Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Now again using kapton tape hold both legs into a single stripe :
Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Place the thermistor as shown below.
Use kapton tape to block it.
Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Use the tiny M3 grub screw and the supplied small hex-wrench to secure the resistor (heating element 40W - 12V) in place.
Do not over tighten the grub screw, it just needs to secure the resistor in place.
Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Notice that the E3D V5 comes with a 12V - 40W heating element.
Since P=V*I => I=P/V=40W/12V=3.33A .
And from ohms law we have V=I*R => R=V/I=12V/3.33A=3.6 Ohms.
So our heating elements should have a resistance of 3.6 Ohms
Below we can see the measurement made for the heating element of the E3D v5 using a multimeter (Ohms position)
measuring the ohms of the heating element
Greg's wade v3 direct extruder for  prusa i3

Pretty similar procedure is for the E3D V6 :
Screw the short end of the stainless steel heatbreak into the heater block until the start of the constriction is flush with the top of the heater-block.
Screw the nozzle into the heater block until it butts up against the heat-break inside the block.
Remember to only hand screw the assembly at this point.

e3d v6 assembing

e3d v6 assembling

Now cut the fiberglass tube into two 35mm pieces like the photo below :
e3d v6 assembling
Do not cut the fiberglass tube in half.

Spread the legs of the ATC Semitec 104-GT2 and pass the two fiberglass tubes. e3d v6 assembling

Use electrical tape to fix temporarely the fiberglass tube with the legs of the thermistor like the photo below.
e3d v6 assembling

Now using the small M3 4mm hex screw and a washer fix the thermistor at the block.
e3d v6 assembling
e3d v6 assembling
Notice that the blue fiberglass must cover the legs of the thermistor all the way down to the sensor.
Once secured the sensor you can remove the eletrical tape.

Using a multimeter we can see that the given heating element for the E3D v6 has 5.76 Ohms of resistance.
Since P=V*I => I=P/V=25W/12V=2.08333A .
And from ohms law we have V=I*R => R=V/I=12V/2.08333A=5.76 Ohms.
e3d v6 assembling

Now place the heater cartridge into the heating block using the M3 10mm hex screw
e3d v6 assembling

Do not overtight the M3 hex screw . The heating block should be slightly deformed by the pressure of the screw.
e3d v6 assembling

Now cut in half the given heatshrink tube and pass it through the red / black cable
e3d v6 assembling

Pass the ferrule tubes at the fiberglass tubing
e3d v6 assembling

Now connect the wires by twisting them.
e3d v6 assembling

Now move over the joints the ferrule tubes and crush them using pliers :
e3d v6 assembling
e3d v6 assembling

Move over the heatshrink tubes and using a lighter heat shrink them over the joints
e3d v6 assembling
e3d v6 assembling

Now hand screw the barrel :
e3d v6 assembling

Insert the PTFE stop at the top of the barrel
e3d v6 assembling
e3d v6 assembling

Cut around 37mm of the PTFE tube and insert it into the barrel :
e3d v6 assembling
e3d v6 assembling
The PTFE tube should exceed by a couple of mm from the top of the barrel.

Now we have mounted our heater cartridge and thermistor into our E3D nozzle. In the next part we will finalize our extruder.


Section 1 - Wooden frame : part 1 - part 2 - part 3
Section 2 - Y Axis : part 1 - part 2 - part 3
Section 3 - X-Z axis : part 1 - part 2
Section 4 - Extruder : part 1 - [[ part 2 ]] - part 3
Section 5 - Electronics : part 1 - part 2 - part 3
Section 6 - Coarse Calibration & Software : part 1 - part 2 - part 3
Section 7 - Fine Calibration & Software : part 1 - part 2 - part 3
Section 8 - Extras : part 1 - part 2 - part 3
Section 9 - Maintenance & Modding : part 1 - part 2



Copyright © TrustFm.net 1998-2017 - Made by TrustFm - All Rights Reserved Worldwide